“I will show them” is my mantra.
From adversity to Madison Avenue...
In a world where barriers often dictate one’s path, my journey can stand as a testament to the indomitable spirit of pursuing dreams against all odds.
Born in Iran and later uprooted to France, my young adult life was defined by the constant struggle for acceptance. Growing up as a Jew in Iran, my father recognized early on the uncertain future that awaited his family and decided in 1967, long before the Iranian revolution, to seek refuge in France. I was six years old. He knew that his children would face obstacles, so to ease the assimilation into the French culture, he bestowed upon his children French names. Catherine is my name; my sister is named Patricia and my brother Francis--odd names for Persian Jews! Our names unfortunately did not smooth the road ahead. Our distinct appearance exposed our roots, making fitting in an arduous task. My skin was too brown, my features too Persian and we endured the sting of humiliation inflicted by teachers and peers due to our limited fluency in the French language. I often stayed quiet, and despite the challenges, I found friendship among fellow immigrants, forming bonds with North African Muslims and Jews who shared similar experiences.
Almost two decades later, a familiar unease began to grip my father's heart again. He sensed the growing precariousness for Jews in France and, against the skepticism of his friends, resolved to pursue a new life for his family, this time in the United States. He wanted us to marry Persian Jews and start our families in America where our children, grandchildren, and future generations could enjoy a fresh start. Following the Iranian revolution in 1979, a large Persian community had formed in LA and NY, so it made sense for us to establish ourselves in that community. In 1985, braving the unknown, he sent us one by one to America, our education in France serving as a stepping stone to a brighter future. Language barriers and cultural unfamiliarity awaited us, but feeling we had no alternative, we embarked on this transatlantic voyage with a mix of apprehension and excitement.
It was within the borders of America that I finally discovered the courage to embrace my past and forge a future that was uniquely my own. Unlike the stifling conformity I used to encounter, my differences were now celebrated, and my exotic background became a source of inspiration.
I entered the realm of marriage and motherhood with passion, dedicating myself wholeheartedly to my children and husband. Yet, amidst the bustling demands of family life, I was itching for more. I had an artistic streak: I loved to paint and design and was just waiting for a sign from the universe to lead me to what I was destined to do. At that time, my husband David was working in the diamond industry and encouraged me to design my own jewelry pieces. It was an interesting, albeit challenging, prospect: how could I design jewelry with no formal training?
My children were in nursery school at the 92nd Street Y so I decided to attend a wax carving class in the same building to acquaint myself with the steps and secrets of jewelry making. But I was too impatient to learn the intricacies of the trade and instead visualized my designs and used words and simple drawings to convey my vision to a model maker. The first set of rings I designed for myself were the Bella rings, which, unbeknownst to me, would jumpstart my career. I was in the elevator picking up my daughter when a chance encounter altered the trajectory of my life forever. I ran into a male friend who admired my rings and said: " I love those rings you're wearing....where did you get them? I desperately need to get my wife a present...""I designed them" I casually responded."Are you a designer?"I hesitated for a second and said: "Yes, I am!"
From this serendipitous moment sprouted a few commissions for his wife and eventually a few pairs of cuff links for himself. Lying dormant for decades, French cuff shirts were suddenly back in vogue and cufflinks were adorning fashionable wrists around the globe. Despite not having a clear understanding of what cufflinks should look like, I intentionally deviated from the status quo and designed a capsule collection featuring geometric and abstract shapes, finished in my trademark satin polish. My friend loved them so much that he encouraged me to present my small collection to stores and suggested I make a business of it.The first and only store that came to mind was Bergdorf Goodman. I didn’t have any business set up yet–no email address, no line sheet, and definitely no press kit—nothing that is required of new designers today. I located the name of the buyer, picked up the phone and called her again and again for three months, each time leaving a very polite message. Then one day, frustrated by her lack of response and unaware of the industry rules, I snapped and left the following message: “Hi, this Catherine Zadeh...I have called you so many times, left so many messages. I don’t understand why you are not returning my calls. All I am asking for is fifteen minutes of your time; you will either like the collection and we can do business together, or you won’t like it and I will never call you again.” She immediately called me back and set up an appointment for 5PM on a frigid Wednesday night in February.I remember stepping out of the elevator, scared and intimidated. As soon as I approached the receptionist, I was told that the buyer had just called to cancel the appointment. Imagine my disappointment. I was upset, felt completely defeated and taken for a fool. As I was about to leave, I noticed a very elegant man approach the desk, inquiring about my visit. When he understood the situation, he apologized profusely, invited me into his office and offered to look at my line. As it turned out, he was Arthur Cook, the DMM (Divisional MerchandisingManager) of the Men’s Division, and her boss!
Avoiding popular use of representational imagery such as animal heads, golf balls, and logos, I had put my own spin on the way cufflinks should be worn. So when I opened my little suitcase and I explained my vision of men sporting them casually with jeans and a navy blazer, a white shirt and no tie-chic, unfussy, and comfortable-he took one look at my designs and said: ”Finally something original. We have been looking for something fresh and unique! Welcome to Bergdorf Goodman.”
Were it not for this missed appointment, I would have never met this gentleman and consequently would have never launched ZADEH.
My daughters were merely toddlers and young girls, and with BG as my launching pad, my designs found their way into esteemed high-end menswear specialty stores, captivating the men’s fashion world with their distinctiveness and originality. I had become an entrepreneur and was able to juggle both family and business in a way that satisfied me.
The economic downturn in 2008 proved to be critical yet a fortuitous turning point—a blessing in disguise. Bergdorf Goodman had hired a new buyer who literally destroyed my business in six months.
Firmly believing that one closed door opens another, I bid farewell to BG, and Barneys welcomed me with open arms. It was there that I expanded my men’s jewelry offerings, with new categories such as bracelets and pendants. Being small and nimble allowed me to navigate the ever-changing landscape and I easily adapted under pressure. I did not have any employees, did not have to manage people and single handedly worked with a team of artisans who became family.
A pivotal moment arrived in the summer of 2013, when I showcased my men's jewelry at the annual Hampton Classic. It was there that I witnessed firsthand the captivating reactions of my clients, men of course and to my surprise women. Unaware that they were initially crafted for men, their requests for my bracelet designs prompted an insightful suggestion from my daughter: "Mom, why not create smaller sizes for women?" It dawned on me that my designs possessed an inherent aesthetic that transcended gender boundaries.
As it turned out, ZADEH was a pioneer in gender neutral designs, 10 years before the phenomenon became mainstream. In just one week, sales eclipsed an entire year's worth at Barneys. My fresh and innovative mix of sustainable and precious materials, seamlessly paired with parachute cord and buffalo horn, had this chic, effortlessly and masculine vibe:
“Jewelry for men who don’t wear jewelry”...
”Precious jewelry for women who are not precious”...
All of a sudden it all just meshed and made sense. I had found myself--my jewelry was the expression of who I was, a tomboy who did not follow rules, a woman who had found her confidence.
A few pop ups later on Madison Avenue as well as a stay in the heart of the horse world in Wellington Fl, gave me the courage to strategically depart from the wholesale landscape. I had had enough of the consignment business model that had taken root in the jewelry industry. The closure of Barneys followed by the unprecedented challenges posed by the pandemic, led to a temporary Southampton location which was a resounding success, finally paving the way for the opening of my inaugural store in the vibrant heart of Carnegie Hill, in NewYork City.
I have come full circle.
I firmly believe that every step of my journey has laid the groundwork for what lies ahead. The time spent nurturing my three daughters, who are now married now and becoming parents themselves, has provided me with a newfound sense of freedom. It is at this juncture that I can wholeheartedly dedicate my attention to my brand, my fourth child—an endeavor deserving my unwavering commitment and devotion.
The pursuit of one’s dream is not without risks. Nurturing my style with passion and transforming it into a brand was always a journey filled with uncertainty. I faced skepticism because my jewelry was so often misunderstood. But I refused to succumb to traditional industry expectations and instead, harnessed the power of rejection, using it as fuel to propel me forward to build a brand that is truly unique. Today I see my jewelry as an embodiment of my soul, evoking emotions and inspiring others. Drawing inspiration from the diverse cultures that have shaped my life, I have created an amalgamation of all my experiences with a style that resonates universally. I am ready and look forward to sharing it with others.